Runway Review: Alexis Mabille Couture Spring 2012

The award for this couture week's best head pieces and most dramatic make-up definitely goes to Alexis Mabille with the bold rainbow of color parading down the runway in head to toe monochromatic looks and faces/headpieces to match.  It was as if Spring itself had come to life on the runway and the ladies were in full bloom.

The quote from Marcel Proust, "It is only women who do not know how to dress that are afraid of colors", was only too appropriate for a show that was built on the energy of color.

Lace panels/insets, cascading flounces and flutter sleeves created a very wearable, feminine and lady-like collection that was bold but not ground breaking.  There is something about the dresses that makes them look like the clothing of royalty and not of the Hollywood set although more than a couple pieces would probably make a statement on the red carpet.

Runway Review: Versace Couture Spring 2012

Versace Couture for Spring 2012 embodies what Donatella does best - glamour, drama and a second skin fit like no other.  The dresses are almost painted on some of the bodies of the models while futuristic, structural elements including slashes of metallic beading and architectural arches extend from the shoulders, hips and bust to emphasize the woman's body.


The overall effect is strong as a warrior but always 100% a woman.  I love the contrast of the delicate lace panels with the fitted corset-like construction.  As for colors while the vast majority of the collection was in dove grey - bold yellow, gold, acid green and vermillion found their way to make some noise.  While the collection was absent of any signature prints the play of texture and silhouette seemed to be the most powerful message.  Sheer panelling and thigh high slits are also noteworthy trends.

Runway Review: Dior Couture Spring 2012

The house of Dior still lives with or without the scandal that is John Galliano and in his second couture collection for the house Bill Gaytten has done a marvelous job of capturing the spirit of Dior with so many references to the past without being stuck there. Classic Dior silhouettes that make a woman feel like a woman – like the New Look of 1947 are in abundance but they are made fresh again being whipped together in translucent fabrics.  It’s almost like you’re have X-ray vision into something that from a glance should be very lady-like and the effect is quite provocative.

One of my favorite pieces is actually this tucked sheath on the very right that almost looks like pattern drafting coming to life with it’s almost muslin color and bold pick stitches.  I guess seeing the art of patternmaking dissected is very appealing to me.  As for color palette the collection was predominantly black, white and nude with a few pops of red and violet. Although monochromatic and without pattern I thought it was the best possible showcase for what Gaytten was trying to achieve.  Bravo for a collection well done.