NYFW Presentation: Mathieu Mirano Fall 2012

When I entered The Box at Lincoln Center I knew very little to nothing about the 20 year old designer behind the namesake collection Mathieu Mirano but I was pleasantly surprised.  My efforts leaving Brooklyn twice in one day had been rewarded by a skillfully tailored collection that was inspired by a dream about dragons and the women that conquered them.



Details like leather paillets, ruched metallics, and claw-like metal hardware all play up on the dragon theme but fortunately not too literally.  The result is a little like armor that a modern day heroine would wear if she was going to an event and had to look dead sexy.  The garments fit almost like a second skin in fabrics like stretch satin, leather and velvet .

The color palette was kept simple in black, pewter, silver, antique navy, crimson and gold.  The color combinations were particularly striking when combined to create graphic sun ray shapes that radiate strategically around the body.  I appreciate that the backs of these dresses have not been forgotten and are just as striking as the fronts.

Mirano has previously cited Alexander McQueen as one of his greatest influences and I can see it in his attention to tailoring, details and his flair for drama.  I have a feeling that we'll be seeing more of this budding designer in the future on red carpet.  A beautiful, well executed and sophomore effort.

NYFW Presentation: Lorena Sarbu Fall 2012

Waking up on a Sunday morning is always a challenge and hauling myself to Lincoln Center for 10:30am from Brooklyn took a bit of convincing but once I arrived I was pleasantly surprised by Lorena Sarbu's collection of glamorous special occasion frocks that would look perfectly at ease on any Hollywood red carpet.


While the silhouettes aren't ground breaking the interesting treatments of beading and illusion panels slim the figure by nipping in the waist or sides.  Sequin, feathers and tulle in rich jewel tones and neutrals were well balanced and although a whole lot of glitter - not at all gaudy.

Necklines were bateau, plunging, sweetheart or one shoulder while skirts were either a mini, a column or a fishtail silhouette.

Aside from a bold lip, make-up was soft and natural and paired back well to the loosely tousled curls in low slung ponytails creating a woman that is elegant and thankfully not too done up.  Nails were an interesting opaque putty color that paired back well to the nudes of the dresses looking simultaneously natural and unusual.

My standout faves are the beaded halter dress in nude with the radiating bugle beads, the nude fishtail dress with the black netting & beads and finally the red bateau above with the lace inset panels.

It is no wonder that Lorena Sarbu already has a following in Hollywood - the collection is classy old school glamor that screams screen siren.

NYFW Presentation: Katya Leonovich Fall 2012

Katya Leonovich the designer who last season masterfully brought control out of chaos and who has a fascination with beautiful garbage this time presented a collection called "An Architectural Aesthetic" at the Box in the Lincoln Center.

Overhead paintings that the designer herself had painted of New York City buildings served as the inspiration for the collection and the prints.

The paintings themselves served up as the colorful basis for prints.  The prints were in sharp contrast to the rippled metallics that remind me of building surfaces, the structural boned leathers that look like the ribs of a building and the sharp graphic use of black and white/python.  Sometime self tubes of fabric were used to create a protective cage around the body but no matter how sharp those style lines of the corsets appear there is always still an element of soft femininity.  It's a s simple as fabric flowing over the hips in a soft slightly rounded manner to a peplum shape and organic draped chiffon creating almost petals around the body.


As for beauty it was kept relatively simple to highlight the statement making clothes.  A neutral lip with classic smokey eyes were what the face was all about while hair was very pretty in soft set finger waves that gave the girls a very polished and ladylike feel.

This is a look that is not for the faint of heart - someone who is not afraid to be seen or make a statement.  While interesting details abound in this collection, my personal favorite pieces were the simplest ones like the metallic crush skinny pants, the white ribbed jacket below and the contrast black and white cape.