NYFW Fall 2013: Katya Leonovich

The Russian designer Katya Leonovich presented her runway show at The Studio at Lincoln Center on Saturday morning with the strong beats of Led Zeppelin's Kashmir pounding the models hit the catwalk with vigor.

The designer best known for her love of beautiful garbage and use of couture techniques presented a collection that had a deep sea feel to it - the colors were primarily swirling shades of blue and black. The black elements relied heavily on texture while the blue swirling prints were most likely created as a direct result of the designer's paintings. Some dresses were carefully edged in faux fur while on other pieces origami draping and the addition of python added visual interest. Mongolian goat fur trim was used on some of the leather pieces for dramatic and luxe effect.

My personal favorite pieces were the belted tunic, the great printed blue jacket, the black leather mini dress and the multi colored blue dress.

As for the beauty looks they were very down to earth - a sort of humble beauty with nude lips, soft smoky eyes and the hair styles of disheveled crowns of hair on each model.

Compared to previous collections this one came across to me as more down to earth and wearable. There is a softness to the shoulders, fabrications seem more tactile and the warrior-like harshness has toned back to be sharp and more comfortable. It is really nice to see the new level of sophistication that in a few short seasons I've had the chance to witness. As the designer continues to evolve it will be really interesting to see where she will go from here.

NYFW Presentation: Katya Leonovich Fall 2012

Katya Leonovich the designer who last season masterfully brought control out of chaos and who has a fascination with beautiful garbage this time presented a collection called "An Architectural Aesthetic" at the Box in the Lincoln Center.

Overhead paintings that the designer herself had painted of New York City buildings served as the inspiration for the collection and the prints.

The paintings themselves served up as the colorful basis for prints.  The prints were in sharp contrast to the rippled metallics that remind me of building surfaces, the structural boned leathers that look like the ribs of a building and the sharp graphic use of black and white/python.  Sometime self tubes of fabric were used to create a protective cage around the body but no matter how sharp those style lines of the corsets appear there is always still an element of soft femininity.  It's a s simple as fabric flowing over the hips in a soft slightly rounded manner to a peplum shape and organic draped chiffon creating almost petals around the body.


As for beauty it was kept relatively simple to highlight the statement making clothes.  A neutral lip with classic smokey eyes were what the face was all about while hair was very pretty in soft set finger waves that gave the girls a very polished and ladylike feel.

This is a look that is not for the faint of heart - someone who is not afraid to be seen or make a statement.  While interesting details abound in this collection, my personal favorite pieces were the simplest ones like the metallic crush skinny pants, the white ribbed jacket below and the contrast black and white cape.