NYFW Fall 2013: Andrea Diodati

On my last day of NYFW I was invited for a fashion show put on by The Sundance Channel's "All on the Line" star Andrea Diodati. It was a show inspired by vintage cheerleaders and the a white winter blizzard.  The collection titled "The White Fall" was a great way for me to close out fashion week because it was a nice getaway from the circus that Lincoln Center has become and just different from Milk Studios. The show was held offsite at the most unusual of locations - a church chapel.

Attendees sipped sparkling pink lemonade and snacked on white cotton candy while they chatted while sitting in the pews. Live musicians singing and playing the violin and fresh cut flowers set the mood.


Once the show began everyone hushed and models with white clouds of curly hair marched down the aisle. And sure to the name of the collection, there was definitely a bounty of white. Soft colors like pale blue, butter and peach were plentiful but there was also an injection of bolder colors like saffron yellow, rose, denim chambray, black and yellow plaid.

Skirts were both flouncy and pencil but all at or above the knee. Pants were slim for most part with 1 pair of flares thrown into the mix. Some styles played with sheerness mixed with shine, others with interesting panels and body contouring fit. Fabrications varied from the most delicate of chiffon to nubby tweeds. My personal favorite look was the textural sequin number paired with tweed vest.

While this show wasn't the most groundbreaking or cutting edge, there were certainly some fresh, wearable pieces with thoughtful detailing. I thoroughly enjoyed the way that the evening was executed as an experience where you were invited into the vision of the designer.

NYFW Fall 2013: CALLA

Call me a bit of an 90s nerd but whenever a collection is inspired by Tetris or other video games it fascinates me. Calla Haynes the Canadian Paris-based designer behind CALLA was inspired by Tetris, Legend of Zelda and director Michel Gondry's The Science of sleep. The unique prints that resembled blurry pixel florals, while another has a cosmic blustery petal feel and let's not forget the Tetris tweed used. The designer partnered up with Austrian knitwear designer Michaela Buerger to create chunky hand-knit wool sweaters.  Fortunately the collection did not look anything like a 90s nerd.



The silhouettes were simple and the styles paired slim and straight with a fit and flare silhouette. boxy jackets contrast the fitted motorcycle peplums. Necklines were jewel neck or button down and I really had to appreciate that the skirts had pockets.

The sugary colors were refreshing and happy in a way that screamed Spring rather than Fall but seemed right for this collection full of whit and whimsy. Deep violet, peach, electric yellow, aqua, slate grey were the main colors used throughout the collection. The colors paired back to neutrals like navy, oatmeal and black to create well balanced combinations. Namesake embellished sweatshirts reminded me of cheerleaders in college and despite not being a logo type of girl made me want to add them to my wardrobe.

As for beauty hair was unfussy and in the kind of messy pony tails and half pony loops that you see women wear on a daily basis. Lips were neutral but eyes were where the fun was at with soft multi-colored pastel shades adding a fresh faced vibrance to the entire look.

Fortunately the designs themselves have nothing juvenile about them despite the youthful influence. These clothes are just too adorable for words and I find myself wanting just about every piece. Modern, wearable, feminine, romantic and charming - who doesn't want to be a CALLA girl? It is no wonder Haynes has been a finalist for the prestigious ANDAM award for the past 3 years.

NYFW Fall 2013: Katya Leonovich

The Russian designer Katya Leonovich presented her runway show at The Studio at Lincoln Center on Saturday morning with the strong beats of Led Zeppelin's Kashmir pounding the models hit the catwalk with vigor.

The designer best known for her love of beautiful garbage and use of couture techniques presented a collection that had a deep sea feel to it - the colors were primarily swirling shades of blue and black. The black elements relied heavily on texture while the blue swirling prints were most likely created as a direct result of the designer's paintings. Some dresses were carefully edged in faux fur while on other pieces origami draping and the addition of python added visual interest. Mongolian goat fur trim was used on some of the leather pieces for dramatic and luxe effect.

My personal favorite pieces were the belted tunic, the great printed blue jacket, the black leather mini dress and the multi colored blue dress.

As for the beauty looks they were very down to earth - a sort of humble beauty with nude lips, soft smoky eyes and the hair styles of disheveled crowns of hair on each model.

Compared to previous collections this one came across to me as more down to earth and wearable. There is a softness to the shoulders, fabrications seem more tactile and the warrior-like harshness has toned back to be sharp and more comfortable. It is really nice to see the new level of sophistication that in a few short seasons I've had the chance to witness. As the designer continues to evolve it will be really interesting to see where she will go from here.

NYFW Fall 2013: Jonathan Simkhai

After catching a show at Milk Studios on the weekend, I made my way up to the 8th floor to catch some presentations - one of which was Jonathan Simkhai.  A little hipster, a little sporty, a little androgynous, a little downtown - but all cool is the best way for me to describe his collection.  As one of the members of the CFDA's fashion incubator program, Simkhai definitely didn't disappoint!

There was plenty of monocromatic black and white, gemetric patterns in addition to impeccable styling.  Boyish charm was scattered throughout the pieces from the sneaker choices to the varsity jackets to the baseball caps.  Throwbacks to 80's ska bands and preppy slim cut suits also made their way into Simkhai's looks.

My favorite item of the lot was this black and teal patchwork leather top with neoprene sleeves (above right).  It was one of those things where I kept going back to look at it after checking everything else out.  This was definitely one of my favorite collections of that night!