Thursday 31 May 2012

A few More Sales this Week


Who: James Perse Summer Sample Sale
What: Up to 80% off Men's and Women's collections.
When: Now until tomorrow 2pm PST
Where: Online only

Who: Hare + Hart Sample Sale
What: Up to 70% off the Argentine-influenced line of leather bags, coats, and more\.
When: May 31-June 1, 2012. Thurs-Fri 8am-8pm
Where: HH Productions, 1201 Broadway (at West 29th St) loft 601 (212-213-2305)

Who: Nicole Miller Summer Sale
What: Summer merch is now 70% off on Spring & Summer Nicole Miller Artelier and Nicole Miller Collection. Includes sportswear seperates to gowns. Suspension Midi Dress was $400, now $240. Diagonal Striped Sweater Skirt was $220, now $110. Strapless All-Over Sequin Gown was $625, now $187.50
When: June 1-30, 2012.
Where: Nicole Miller Boutitques and online

Wednesday 30 May 2012

In the Studio with Friends with Benefits

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A few weeks ago I had the opportunity to spend an intimate evening at the home/studio of Clark Sabbat and Lynn Levoy, the designers behind Friends with Benefits.

When I asked about the interesting name, Sabbat shares that the label was created with the intention to collaborate with their friends.  They eventually would like to create a lifestyle brand that also benefits others by donating a percentage of the profits to select charities.  They also liked the other connotation that it is a little sexy because every woman wants to look a little sexy.  I mention the movie with the same title and they groan a little because their name was long existing before the movie ever came into being.

Sabbat states that in some ways he like Rick Owens and Haider Ackermann is a student of Madame Gres.  He loves drape and 90% of the collection is created through draping and working with the fabrics and simplicity. His background in architecture also plays a key in the clean and sculptural lines.  For this reason the designer does not use any buttons in the collection as they are a distraction but instead rely on invisible zipper and snaps as the closures on all pieces.

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When talking about why he made the transition from architecture to clothing he shares that it is about instant gratification. Buildings take years to create and the most successful architects are now in their nineties. With fashion you can come up with a new idea and make the dress within the same day.  I got a sneak peek at some of some of the designs in progress for Friends with Benefits.  The wall is full of inspiration and although there are some design sketches they are only a jumping off point for the designs as they develop.

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With the collection the intention is to make clothes that make it easy for women. Clothes that take you from day to night, clothes that can be comfortable and yet still professional. And surprisingly I learn that everything is machine washable for real women, who don't want to bother with dry cleaning. Even the leathers which could be delicate washed on a cool setting and laid flat to dry. It is clothing that is both beautiful and functional. Fabrication is of the utmost importance and the collection is more about texture than color. Sequin is intentionally left off parts of printed denim to show that it is still denim. The designer feels that it is important to enjoy the reflective quality that remind him of shimmering pools but still show off the raw materials. They might spend two hours at a fabric mill but only walk away with two qualities they want to go forward with. Sometimes a fabric speaks to them and they know it will work. All the dip dyed and tie dyed pieces are hand done in house by Chrissie an intern who eventually became staff. The designer says how he saw her potential and pushed her to the next level in order to succeed and as a result she has come out stronger and now she helps creates the special fabrics in the collection.

Some of my favorite pieces in the collection maintain a clean architectural feel and are simultaneously cozy and stylish.  I love the attention to detail, the unusual zippers built into seam lines and the strong shoulders.

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When I ask Sabbat for advice for aspiring designers he said it is very important to find your own voice and stay true to yourself. For young designers who work for someone else they may have to find their own way to express the vision of who they work for but if you are an independent designer you must stay true to who you are. So many times its easy to get clouded by people telling them constantly what they should do or who they should be but a designer should think of what they want the woman who wears their label to look like. Fashion is a tough business and because he works easily 10-12 hour days and up to 16 hours before a launch he says its part of the reason their studio is set up in their home so that they can spend time with their family still. It's no easy road for an independent designer but in some way its a numbers game because over time those who are not truly passionate about what they do will quit but persistence pays off and those who stick with it will succeed. As a designer one must get used to rejection and overcome depression.

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I left for the night feeling uplifted, encouraged and excited to see what’s next for Friends with Benefits.

Tuesday 29 May 2012

Chicago Designer: Agga B.

One of the hardest things about moving from New York City was leaving America's fashion capital, but moving to Chicago has introduced me to new, smaller lines that I might not have otherwise discovered.  

Left: Green Diamond Dress $320. Right: Pink Sweetheart Dress $305

At last month's Dose Market, I came across Agga B. a line by Polish born who moved to the US in 2002, starting in New York and moving to Chicago in 2005.  Her line caught my attention because it spoke to my aesthetic.  Her dresses are her standout pieces; they incorporate a mixture of textiles and a balance of classic tailoring and modern embellishments.

The top images are from her Spring 2012 lookbook.  Both of these dresses are pieces I would love to have in my closet because I would feel comfortable wearing them to the office and out with friends.  I love the use of black and a lighter color to create a simple, yet bold look.

The pieces below are a couple favorites from her online shop.  The vest would be great for layering over a basic dress and adding some structure and polish to an outfit.  The orange dress I've seen in person, and it's awesome.  The print is reminiscent of classic European art, but with a modern twist of neon orange - and you know how much I love neon.

Left: Honey Dew Vest $205. Right: Orange Dress "dress du jour" special pricing $130 (reg $215)

For my fellow Chicagaons, you can shop Agga B in person at:

1717 North Ave, Wicker Park
Tues-Sat 11-6PM
312-772-2230

Monday 28 May 2012

Sample Sales NYC: May 29-June 3, 2012

Who: Gucci Online Private Sale
What: Reserve merch from the Spring 2012 collection for 30% off retail
When: Now through June 1, 2012
Where: Online Only

Who: Multi-designer sale
What: Snag womenswear stock and samples from The Wrights, Tocca, Margaret Oleary, Eva Franco, Funktional, Delicate Raymond, Joe's Jeans and San & Soni
When: May 29-31, 2012. Tues-Thurs 11am-7pm
Where: Clothingline, 261 W 36th Street (b/n 7th & 8th Ave), 2nd Floor

Who: Ulla Johnson
What: Women's collection is now wholesale or below. A striped sweater is $130 (was $325), while a silk dress is $150 (was $350)
When: May 31-June 2, 2012. Thurs—Fri 10am—6pm, Sat noon—l5pm.
Where: 270 Lafayette St at Prince St, suite 1403

Who: Showroom Seven Sample Sale
What: Up to 80% off wholesale on labels like Erickson Beamon, Issa London, Twenty Cluny, Liebeskind, Odd Molly
When: May 28-June 2, 2012. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 11am-6pm.
Where: 263 11th Ave - 3rd Floor (b/n 27th & 28th St)

Who: Freshpair Sample Sale 
What: Deep discounts on men's underwear including 2(x)ist, Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein and more (women's underwear includes Calvin Klein, Bali, Glamorise and more). CASH ONLY
When: May 30-June 1, 2012. 10am-7pm
Where: 611 Broadway - Suite 523 (b/n W Houston and Washington Square Village) . 212.505.6900 x236

Who: Acne Surplus/Moving Sale
What: At least 70% off menswear, womenswear and footwear.
When: May 30-June 5, 2012. 11am-7pm
Where: 10 Green St (b/n Grand and Canal St.)

Who: Bric's Sample Sale
What: Up to 90% off luggage and handbags
When: 260 5th Avenue (b.n 28th & 29th St)
When: May 30-June 2, 2012. Wed-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-4pm

Who: Helmut Lang Sample Sale
What: Up to 65% off womenswear
When: May 31-June 3, 2012. Thurs-Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-6pm
Where: 75 9th Avenue (b/n 15th & 16th St) - Prive Space

Friday 25 May 2012

Kaelen Fall 2012 Lookbook

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I previously told you to watch out for the rising New York based, Toronto raised design talent, Kaelen Farncombe.  Her collection takes wardrobe classics like button up shirts, cigarette pants, the boxy jacket and shift dress and re-invents them with strong style lines with an architectural feel, graphic prints and color blocking to create clothes that are still wearable, modern and bold.


The Fall 2012 collection is all about texture with the use of charmeuse, lace, lame, velvet and textured wool. Details like cowl backs, cut out shoulders and angular hemlines are seen throughout.  Charming bow ties add a dash of whimsy while column dresses look goddess-like but in a simpler more elegant way.  The collection also featured several drop crotch pants but I am a little torn on my thoughts of those.  Do you think would you wear drop crotch pants?

Check out her full lookbook after the jump.


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