NYFW Spring 2014: Calla

Calla Haynes first caught my attention last season with her Tetris inspired 90s-esque collection. This season the young designer who was a finalist for France's prestigious ANDAM prize for 3 years continues her 90s love with a surf inspired collection. The designer's love for the decade could in part be stemmed from the fact that it was about the time in her life when fashion first held it's influence.

Fortunately the designer did not hold us hostage in the past and lent her youthful aesthetic to creating fresh fashion for the modern age. Sure there were crop tops, bat wing sweaters, bralets and matching skirt suits (Hello, Clueless) but the proportions have been modified to become a lot more flattering through full skirts, loose trousers and figure skimming sheaths

For most part just a peek of skin shows at a time making the cropped tops a lot more wearable. Items skim the body without being too oversized or too mini. 

  

Mixing prints seems second nature to Ms. Haynes and neon or bright pops were balanced with neutrals like black and white or white and warm grey.

The overall effect is that the Calla woman is feminine, cute but not at all saccharine or dainty.

NYFW Spring 2014: Marc by Marc Jacobs

The Marc by Marc Jacobs runway show takes is back to the late 50s with it's neck kerchiefs, polka dots, bomber jackets, optical lines and pinstripes. The silhouette is the precursor to the 60s straighter silhouettes and shift type dresses rule the runway.

Suits of every kind found that way onto the runway in the form of traditional pinstripes, play suits and jump suits. Thanks to being layered with pinstripes and paired with sneakers the look remains casual. Linen, satin and sequins are all made casual too with the pairing over a plain white tee. Very fitting and youthful for the Marc by Marc customer.

Soft pastel pinks and baby blues are paired with their more vibrant counterparts of cherry red and marine. Neutral mouse beige, cream and black create a base for this collection.

Graphic color blocking continues and bold motifs like studded stars and lightning give the collection a dose of rock and roll.

Interestingly enough, every menswear outfit seemed to have a female counterpart. Is it a uniform vision for both men and women or a resurgence in the dreaded couple look?

Nevertheless the final results were refreshing and fun although nothing new under the sun.

NYFW Spring 2014: Costello Tagliapietra

The designers of Costello Tagliapietra have long been known as much for their personal style as they have been for their light handed approach to draping ultra-feminine dresses. This season they branched out of the their normal territory and made the collection a bit more personal by being inspired by their personal approach to dressing while introducing plenty of separates, handbags and shoes.

 

Naturally there was a nod to the plaid that they both love and have earned them the affectionate nickname of the Fashion Bears. However the plaid has been blurred out to it's most abstract form to create a softer print. The long cardigans they favor, button-up shirts, relaxed trousers and tailored jackets have all found their way into this collection. However this is not to say that this is a literal translation of the duos masculine style and there is no hint of hipster or 90s grunge present. It is more what the designer's vision of women borrowing from the boys might look like.

Don't think that this means the designers have given up on their first love of draping. There are feminine dresses a plenty. However this time around the silhouettes are less voluminous and more sleek.

The color palette of orange, aqua, baby blue, cobalt, olive, black and flame red lend a tropical feel to the collection. When it is layered and color blocked in many of the looks it becomes very striking.

Overall the results were successful in creating wearable, effortless, elegant clothing that is simultaneously modern and classic. I really appreciate how the designers have broadened their offerings, giving more choices to their customer and can't wait to see these pieces at retail.

NYFW Spring 2014: Kye

Kathleen Kye the South Korean designer behind the label Kye made her debut last season at Concept Korea, a platform that supports young designers of Korean descent.

This season Kye stuck out on her own and presented a collection inspired by pained youth. Featuring bandaids emblazoned in gold and other shiny colors throughout the collection. There was a definite streetwear bent but also a small dose of sophistication that was reminiscent of Margiela, including the sleeves that tie into a skirt and the slightly bondage-esque buckles. Baseball caps shown with all of the looks gave the collection a casual urban feel. Thigh high slits and cropped tops with exposed midriffs were prominent in the collection but manage to come across as surprisingly appropriate. I would be interested to see what happens with this young designer as she grows.

NYFW Spring 2014: Harbison

In just his second season, Charles Elliott Harbison is already making a buzz in the fashion world for his ability to bring together multiple influences with ease in his luxury collection.

For Spring 2014 collection, the tomboy style of the late singer Aaliyah, colors from Yves Klein are just a couple of the influences. Menswear fabrics, gingham and tribal inspired fabrics sound like an odd pairing but they all sit together nicely thanks to a uniform color palette of black and white with pops of red, gold and navy. The silhouettes are long and languid with silky wide leg pants and dresses that skim over the body.

There is something decidedly modern about the collection despite the classic wearable nature of many of the pieces. Perhaps it is the color blocking or the exposed midriffs. Or perhaps it is the refreshing revival of roomier shapes. Whatever it was it worked and Harbison will be a label to watch in the coming years.

NYFW Fall 2013: Louise Amstrupp

There are a couple of presentations that I stopped by that I never had a chance to get to so here is one more review for you. Louise Amstrup  is the London based designer who made her London Fashion Week debut back in 2009. Now to signify a new era Louise Amstrup presented in New York for the very first time at Milk Studios.

The collection was inspired by the 2004 documentary, Plagues and Pleasures on the Salton Sea, that portrayed a ghost town in the Californian desert. The town was once lauded to become the new Palm Springs before ever increasing salt levels gave the area an odor of decaying fish.

Salt crystals, underwater sea creatures and coral became the inspirational elements that Amstrup drew upon.  The level of detail took a couture approach. The organza skirt shown above consisted of hundreds of hand-dyed organza flowers and took 850 hours to create.


My favorite pieces where those that were less worked and had a sporty edge with a net layer. The acid yellow and lilac prints looked great against navy, white, light grey and black. Softly rounded hips and rounded shoulders looked great as did the a-line silhouettes and youthful mini lengths. Marbleized nail polish, crimped hair, floppy hats and socks with silver ASOS heels finished off the look.

NYFW Fall 2013: Steven Alan

If I had to describe the Steven Alan Fall 2013 collection in a sentence it would be, "Wearable comfortable basics done right with just a hint of quirk". This is a collection that I could see a thousand New Yorkers wearing on my daily commute.

When it comes to the womenswear component there was a still small voice that took basics and styled them in a every signature Steven Alan kind of way. A shirtdress is layered over slim trousers with a turtleneck on top. A leather skirt is layered over a striped shirtdress with the shirttail peeking out at the bottom. A baggy shirt is only half tucked in to trousers with an elastic hem and topped with a jaunty scarf.




None of these pieces in their individual components would be so stand out, although very nice wardrobe building pieces. However when skillfully combined, you can see the Steven Alan woman emerge in the velvet, the nubby knits, the plaid, the windowpane and oxford shirting and in the leather.

My favorite looks are the leather skirt over striped shirtdress and the windowpane trousers and dress with trench.

While I am no menswear expert, I thought the men's presentation was very strong. Interesting subtle details like twisted plackets give a flair to the collection while soft wool, textured knits and fine wale corduroy give a lot of warmth.

Colors are muted in a range of greys, camel, olives and black with hits of burgundy and soft blue. Blazers and pants are cut on the shorter side for a informal look that is anything but sloppy. Layering throughout the collection reflected the womenswear and in a city like New York, just makes sense.